Jet Lathe

A lathe is one of the most versatile power tools you can own. A Jet lathe is easy to assemble and operate since it comes with an excellent set of instructions. You can choose a lathe with a number of tools and features, depending on your use. For instance, you can get a Jet lathe that has an eight piece chisel, as well as some other hand tools already built in. You will save money on features like this since you will not have to buy as many additional tools.

The Jet Lathe has some really fabulous features, such as a very wide range of speed, from 550 to 3000 rpm, with six different speed settings and a 35 inch distance between centers, 3/4 HP motor and a 12 inch swing over bed. These features give the Jet Lathe plenty of power and versatility for just about any job you may have.

Jet Table Saw

A table saw is essential, and a Jet table saw will guarantee you the power and accuracy you will need in your woodworking shop. Models come in horsepower ranging from 3 to 5, and the fence is available from between 30 and 50 inches. As with all Jet tools, the setup is easy because of the excellent instructions. A Jet Table Saw will last for many years; just replace the blade from time to time. Some of the most important features of a Jet Table Saw are the suspended motor driven mechanism, the blade guard and anti kick back feature, to assure safe operation, a dust collection insert for insertion of a vacuum hose (for keeping the shop clean), contoured cross section to allow for a larger surface area, dual push start buttons to prevent accidental starting and securely locking fence.

Jet Planer

A Jet planer can be obtained in an open stand or closed stand, or a portable model. These sturdy planers are made of cast iron and steel so they are extremely durable. Some of the most important features are a 3 HP motor, which is fan cooled, a 4 inch dust chute, extension rollers and magnetic controls and an adjustable table. The adjustable table allows for a great deal of versatility in your projects.

Jet Drill Press

The drill press is floor mounted, with a 3/4 HP motor and a choice of 12 or 16 inch speed. The 13 inch diameter of the table gives you ample work space, and the table can be tilted to 45 degrees with the quick release clamp. There is also a Jet bench mount drill press, with 16 speeds ranging from 200 to 3630 rpms. The 10X13 work area on this press allows for a lot of workspace, and the 3/4 HP motor gives it ample power.

Using Jet power tools like these, you will create an easy to use, durable and versatile workshop for yourself.

My eager for producing my PCB’s at home rather than using the good old wire-wrap prototyping method gets even stronger as the years goes by and the availability of thru hole packages (for modern devices) is getting lower and lower. When thinking of a new design, one has much more devices to select if SMT technology is acceptable. That is a very strong motivation to learn about making your own SMT PCB at home.

The method I’m going to introduce here has great success rate and beautiful results. It is important to follow the rules. It is truly a production process that once completed makes you feel really proud of accomplishing it.

Again, following the rules is crucial for the success of the process. This may sound intimidating at first, but actually, the process is very easy to follow.

Major production steps:

1. Prepare a mirrored image of your circuit, printed on a toner transfer paper using a laser printer.

2. Cut, sand and clean a piece of copper over glass epoxy laminate.

3. Bake your piece of art in the oven.

4. Etch your board inside an etching chemical.

5. Rinse in water and sand some leftovers.

6. Show everybody your board.

7. Solder the components.

Few notes:

Don’t forget to take safety measures when doing these steps.

It is highly recommended to use latex gloves when handling the etching chemical.

During the production process there are many opportunities to cut yourself, ruin your clothes, burn your fingers and inhale unfriendly substances. Use caution.

Well, lets get started !

Like every product in the modern age, your PCB would start in a design software on your PC. Choosing your favorite design software for this task is out of the scope of this document. The only requirement that I insist of is being capable of printing an image of the design in a mirror view. The importance of mirroring the design is hard to explain in words and should be understood from the pictures followed at the link below.

The great advantage of an SMT based PCB for home production is that SMT devices do not require drilling holes threw the board. That’s just great. However, sometimes you can’t get away with this. There are few cases which force you to drill holes. for example, few connectors require drilled holes. Traces that could not be routed in copper and require soldered bridging between two points would also require drilling. Any way, SMT technology reduces dramatically the amount of drilled holes while shrinking the board size at the same time.

The reason I discussed SMT advantage was to make you keep in mind while designing your circuit, that you want minimum amount of drills and you should try to avoid complex designs at the first place. I always try braking large circuits into few separated boards. There are two major reasons for this board segmentation. First, The smallest the circuit the easiest the layout. Second, smaller circuits may serve as basic general purpose building blocks for larger designs in the future. Think of a general purpose operational amplifier board. Such board may have only an OPAMP device with few resistors around it and soldering points for connecting external wires. It is a great building block for many projects. Once your layout design is ready for production, you should be able to print a mirrored image of it using 1:1 scale, on a special glossy paper (Toner Transfer paper would be best), using a laser printer.

Lets brake the previous sentence into smaller pieces now.

A finished design should look like a graphical representation of the traces that should reside on the finished board. The image must be mirrored because of the way we are going to use it later in the process. Now, Glossy paper is a general term for a more confusing definition like “Some paper used by ink jet printers for photo printing”. Just in case you didn’t know, Not all photo papers were born equal. Finding the right paper for this job may be tedious. The first paper I used could not be peeled off the PCB at the end of the process and I had to throw it away. The next paper I found was a hit. It peels easily and leaves a clean print of the traces over the bare copper. I will discuss this peeling issue later in the process. Remember that you may try few photo papers before you find the “one”. Don’t get give up right away. Luckily enough, there are special Toner Transfer Papers designed exactly for this purpose.

Using 1:1 scale means that you should set your software to print the image of your board with dimensions equal to the real dimensions of your components and traces. And finally, only laser printing would do the trick. That is because the Toner, which is the black substance (laser “ink”) used for laser printing is actually a polymer that does not soak into the paper like real ink. The Toner is heated inside the printer and when it melts it sticks to the surface of the glossy paper. Stuck to the surface of paper, the Toner just waits for an opportunity to stick (be transferred) to other surface if it gets hot enough to melt. Are you starting to get it?

Now that we have a printed version of our PCB in hand, we would cut the paper to the outlines of our board and leave few more millimeters of paper on the edges of the board. This leftover outside the outlines of the board will be used later as a grip point for peeling the paper.

This is the part where get our hands dirty by doing some craft work.

A PCB starts as a laminate of a thin copper layer over a glass epoxy substrate (also called FR4 laminate). Laminates can be usually found where you’d buy your electronic components. There are two types of laminates for the home user. Single sided and Dual sided. usually 1mm to 2mm thick. Single sided means that there is copper only on one side of the laminate. Dual means there is copper on both sides of the laminate. This paper focuses on single sided PCB’s so single sided laminate is good enough. Single sided circuits can be made of single or dual sided laminates because either way any unwanted copper is etched away.

Cutting the laminate to the circuit size is done in two phases. First, you mark the height of your circuit across the laminate using a sharp knife and a ruler. The deeper the marking the easiest it is going to be. After marking the line, you should align the straight line with an edge of a table and place a ruler above the laminate. Applying pressure on the laminate should brake it across the marking leaving a nice straight edge. Now, the width of the circuit should be marked and cut at the same way.

Now that we have the laminate cut to the size, we should prepare it for the toner transfer process. Using the finest sandpaper (wet paper) the copper should be sanded evenly until the copper is clean and shiny leaving microscopic scratches on the copper surface. These microscopic scratches are best as gripping points for the sticking of toner to the copper.

After sanding the copper it is important to wash the laminate with soap. Using kitchen dishes soap would be best. This washing is intended to remove any grease leftovers (fingerprints are greasy too). Grease leftovers would prevent proper sticking of the toner to the copper. Avoid touching the copper after washing it because it should be kept grease free (fingerprints are greasy). Finally the laminate should be dried using a paper towel.

Do you remember the mirror printed image on a glossy paper? place it above the dry copper such that the copper is facing up and the toner is faced down towards the copper. The paper should lie straight above the copper. Hold the paper and laminate steady and use adhesive tape on two edges of the laminate to hold the paper and laminate together. Make sure the circuit is aligned the way you want and

take a deep breath because the most interesting step is next.

Your circuit is now ready for the baking stage. Few people recommend ironing the paper using a hot iron until it sticks to the copper. The problem I found with ironing was that it is not predictable in terms of toner transfer succes. Some times it works and some times it doesn’t. I believe that I developed a better technique. Before baking can start you should prepare some sort of pressing device that would keep the glossy paper pressed onto the copper. I use two thick aluminum plates with holes at the corners. Bolts are used to attach the plates together while the circuit is in the middle. The circuit must be cushioned between thick layers of paper. The cushioning is important to spread the pressure across the laminate and prevent some areas of the circuit from not being transferred properly. The bolts and nuts should be closed quite strong to apply great pressure over the laminate and glossy paper match.

The press should be inserted into a preheated 150 degrees Celsius oven for a period of about half an hour. The baking time may vary depending on the mass of the press device you use. The heavier the press the more time it gets to get hot enough in order to transfer the heat to the paper cushioning and the circuit within. After baking is finished it is recommended to turn off the oven, open the door and let it cool until you can safely touch the press device with your hands. This is the time to loose those bolts and find your circuit between the layers of paper.

If everything went OK you should see that the glossy paper is stuck to the copper. Now find an edge of the paper and start pulling it gently away from the copper. If you had some luck, the paper comes off rather easily leaving a nice print over the copper. If the paper is not a friendly one you might have real difficulties with peeling it away without ruining the printed traces on the copper. Sometimes, if the pressure wasn’t applied evenly across the board you would see that some toner does not stick to the copper and the laminate is now useless for the next stages (can be sanded and started from the beginning). If nothing went wrong you should now hold in hand a laminate with your circuit printed on it just like as if it was a piece of paper that came out of a laser printer.

Just before etching is started, You may go on drilling few holes now for through hole packages and bridging wires if needed. It is preferable to drill before etching is started because the surrounding copper gives better mechanical strength to round pads around the drilled holes. These pads may be ripped off sometimes when drilling after the board is etched. Another good reason is that the etching after drilling would remove any strands of copper around the edges of the drilled hole.

Now is the time to remove unnecessary copper where there are no traces (no toner). The toner is actually a protective layer that prevents the etching fluid from etching our traces. The etching substance is called Ferric-Chloride and it can be bought as little gravel or in powder form.

The etching fluid is a mixture of warm water (just like the temperature you would use to wash your hands on a cold day) and Ferric-Chloride. The quantity ratio is not crucial. Too little Ferric-Chloride would slow the etching process. Too much will result in a messy dark mud like fluid. I use ratios like making a cup of coffee. Put just little amount of Ferric-Chloride at the bottom of your container and fill it with water. The etching container should be made of plastic or glass – not metal.

For the etching process you need to find a way for continues dropping and pulling the circuit into and out of the fluid. This way any remaining copper that has been etched is washed from the surface and letting the fluid penetrate into deeper layers of copper. I am using something like a small fishing rod with a line connected to a little hole drilled somewhere on the laminate. Once etching was started, it may take few minutes of etching until you see some results. At first, large areas of exposed copper start to disappear. Few more minutes will expose the gaps between traces. Finally after about half an hour or more the board will be finished.

At the moment the board looks the way you want, it should be washed under running water to remove any leftovers of the etching fluid and stop the etching process. Use caution when washing the circuit (and the container). Splashes of the dark fluid will stain anything in their way.

After the circuit has been washed it is ready for the final stage. Using the finest sand paper again (wet paper), the black toner should be removed to expose the copper. An alternative way to remove the black toner would be washing it with few drops of Acetone. Once all copper is exposed the board is ready for soldering.

This is it. You are now holding your first hand made PCB. This is the time to go and show everybody what you achieved. Now, all you have to do is solder your components and turn on your circuit…

It is strongly recommended to watch the photos at the following link.

This is quite an uncommon technique, but basically it combines the simple technique of mosaic with stained glass and can create some beautiful and stunning effects. It is much easier to learn than traditional stained glass techniques and there is little wasted glass because every last piece can be utilized. In fact you positively need broken glass bits. You can either buy complete sheets of stained glass yourself and then cut them into little pieces, or you can buy precut stained glass pieces in various shapes and sizes from online mosaic websites or eBay. If you choose to make your own mosaic pieces then you will need glass cutting pliers or ‘nippers’. These are very safe and easy to use and you can quickly cut hundreds of small mosaic pieces from the stained glass. The other things you will need are:

-A piece of clear glass as a base, you can use picture frame glass for this. (the wood frame is handy too)

-Clear drying glue such as Weldbond

-Dark tile grout and mixing stick.

-Damp Cloth

The basic technique is to first sketch out your design and place the sketch under the clear glass you are affixing the glass mosaic pieces to. You can then easily follow the lines and shapes as you stick each piece of stained glass down using the weldbond. Do not worry if the weldbond appears white, it will soon dry clear. Leave a gap of a few millimeters between each piece, this is where the grout will go later. Once you are happy with your design, confirm all the pieces are fixed to the glass well. Try to avoid getting an excess of glue in the gaps between the mosaic pieces as this can prevent the grout from adhering.

After 24 hours the glue should be set and you can apply the grout. Choose a dark grout black or brown as this makes the stained glass stand out much better than white grout. You can use ’sanded’ grout or ‘unsanded’ grout. The sanded grout is stronger but may cause little scratches when you apply it. The unsanded grout should be fine on smaller pieces of work and is easier to apply. You can also buy premixed coloured grout for bathrooms which is really easy to use. Applying the grout is the messy part, you simply scoop some up using a spreader or spatula and press it onto you Mosaic, gently pushing it into all the gaps. You continue till the whole work is covered and then gently wipe of the excess with a damp cloth. As the grout dries you continue gently wiping the mosaic periodically til most of the grout is removed from the stained glass, however you do not want to remove too much from between the mosaic pieces. You will learn as you go how best to remove the grout, just remember do not let it dry totally on the top surface of the stained glass or else it will be hard to remove. A little ghosting is OK and can be removed once the work is fully dry using a soft damp cloth.

Once dry you can frame your work. If you have used picture glass from a frame, then you can reuse the frame for your mosaic. Framing the mosaic will make the work look more complete and professional. Now the secret to displaying a stained glass on glass mosaic is to have light shining through it so hang the piece up in a window and it should be a real talking point as the glorious colours shine through!

The dangers of lead, especially to children and pregnant women, have sparked a new round of concern and action that may soon rival efforts to rid buildings of asbestos.

In the U.S., federal legislation requires real estate agents and sellers of any building built before 1978 to declare their knowledge of lead hazards, provide a lead warning pamphlet to prospective buyers, and give them a chance to test for lead before the contract can be finalized.

In Canada, lead was used in most paint up to about the time of World War II. Some paint contained as much as 50 percent lead by weight until 1976 when the federal government restricted lead to 0.5 percent.

Called the “silent disease” because it affect humans slowly and without symptoms, lead poisoning can cause learning disabilities, interfere with growth, cause hearing loss or visual impairment, damage the nervous system, interrupt fetal development, cause miscarriages, or lead to brain damage, convulsions and death.

As many as 90 percent of North American houses built before the fifties contain lead-based paint. This flaking paint is a threat to children inside the house and while playing on the ground near the house. Adults and children together are at risk from the dust that results from normal wear and friction around door jambs and window frames.

Everyone needs to take great care to avoid the dust that is created when surfaces are scraped or sanded for repainting, which is a job for specially-trained lead abatement contractors. You can’t eliminate the dust with a regular vacuum cleaner without making the situation worse.

Paint isn’t the only threat. An older home’s plumbing may contain lead pipes, which were widely used and last a long time. Lead leaches into the water as it stands in the pipes. (Interestingly, the word plumbing comes from the Latin word plumbum, which means lead.)

Lead pipes were commonly used for toilet and sink drains because lead is so soft the pipes could be bent by hand. Lead solder was used to join older lead pipes to modern copper pipes. And molten lead was used to seal joints in the big cast iron pipes that carry waste to the sewers.

Even people who live in a modern house without lead pipes can’t assume their drinking water is lead-free, because in many cities there’s lead in the water long before it reaches the house. Residents in cities with high lead levels in the water supply should purchase water-treatment devices that filter out lead before it reaches the tap.

Most home inspectors point out the existence of lead pipes whenever they are found and most will send water samples to the local health department if requested. Municipalities normally charges about $50 for testing. Home inspectors can test for lead paint for about $50 or test all the vinyl blinds in the house for a similar price.

Now that we know how dangerous lead can be in and around older homes, we need to make sure we act on it and protect ourselves and our families from this unseen danger.

Committed to your peace-of-mind,

1. Bathroom

Bath Accessories- Changing something so small as the toothbrush holder, trash can, and soap dish in your bathroom can make a world of difference. The devil is in the details, and in a room as simply decorated as a bathroom, these small details can have a big impact. For a modern touch go with stone or b rushed metal. Themed accessories can coordinate a room as well.
Framed Art- Choose pieces that are smaller for a larger impact. Always make sure your artwork is framed behind glass so that the moisture of the room won’t damage the art inside.

2. Kitchen

Hanging Pots and Pans Holder- Place this over a counter island or over your sink. This is not only a practical tool for clearing up space in your cabinets, it also gives the room an urban or professional kitchen flare.
Swag- Picking up the colors of your kitchen or the essence of your home, using a swag in the kitchen invites warmth into your home. Pick a swag with berries or other herbs in it to tie the food element together.

3. Living Room

Wall Mirror- When done correctly, hanging a mirror can make a room look larger than it is. You’ll want to pick a mirror large enough to be grand, but not too large as to look gaudy. Focus on framed mirrors that use colors found in other places around the room.
Sconces & Candles- Hand sconces on the walls that hold scented candles. There are many sconce choices that include brass, aged brass, iron, and ceramic options. These are wonderful accents to the style of your living room. Choose a candle in a color that matches your room and in a scent that relaxes you. A strong vanilla is always a favorite.

4. Bedroom

Oil Canvas- A brushed canvas painting on your bedroom walls brings in color and texture. Choosing two canvas paintings that are not identical, but are in the same collection will make the room look cohesive.
Scented Oils- An oil burner creates the fragrance of a warm room in a romantic way. Lavender is a favorite for it’s relaxing influence.

5. Dining Room

Table Runner- Think of color and of fabric in making this choice. The texture will add rich warmth to the room and the color should compliment other elements already in place.
Fresh Flowers- Though you can’t buy these at Overstock.com or Potpourri Group, you can find beautiful vases or other containers to place the flowers in. Choose something with a narrow opening and get at least one tall and one short option for variety.

Foundry is nothing but a basic metal casting factory set-up in the backyard of the house or in the house itself. The casters in hobby foundry are known as Hobby Metal Professionals. Home foundry is used for small casting need and showing personal creativity in casting. The only difference between Home Foundry and Commercial Foundry is that, equipments used for the set-up of home based foundry are easily available in the market and it is used to execute uncomplicated metal casting. Hobby Foundry or Metal Foundry is a nice platform to show your creativity in metal casting, the only limiting factor is your imagination and dexterity. Overall it is simple-hassle free and cost effective process.

After acquiring basic knowledge about small hobby foundry, you should start thinking about equipments needed. From where to get equipments? For equipments you can take help of local technology college professor who is expert and trading in same. There is also coaching available for learning hobby foundry. Usually the time period of this coaching is 24 weeks.

But it is wise advice not to stop learning because you have gain basic knowledge of hobby foundry. Instead enhance your learning by buying books of expert on the topic and learning new and creative methods and techniques.

It is said that true lesson of foundry is learnt when you start actually molding and making things.

Sand is main component used in foundry for molding. The best idea to check whether your sand is ready to use for casting or not is, to take a handfull of sand and clutch it to your limit. If the sand grind, you have some matter to deal with for quantity of binder or hydrogen it contain. It should be a multifaceted substance, neither too dry as a bone nor too dripping.

If the sand is ready to use, melted metal is poured and cooled down. Cooled metal is then separated from sand by removing it. This process is continuously carried out for further new metal casting.

Some advantages of a foundry are:

1)      No heavy investment require for land, equipments and apparatus.

2)      No need to make mold again and again for repetitive work and thus lots of energy, time and effort is saved.

3)      With a tiny proportion of cost, you can setup a comparatively good foundry for a particular metal adequately available in your local market.

4)      All major components of hobby foundry are easily produced at home except one or two like crucible.

Sand molding is learning what works best for you. There are a few rules to be followed, but these come on second priority after you become well-known with all the above stepladders. Bear in mind to take annotations of your successes and failures which could be of great use in future project.

Again, Hobby Foundry is not a magic learnt from books, but it is learnt and mastered by practical experience.

When your LCD screen has gone bad because of a high voltage problem, you can leave the television unit unplugged for about half an hour so it can reset itself. Now if that doesn’t work, check the circuit board that supplies power into the screen. But, if the television is under warranty, better check that first to ensure that you’ll get the proper solution to the problem. If the warranty has elapsed, check the trusty Internet and look for a service manual to help you identify the source of the problem and fix it DIY way.

When the screen displays on half of the picture, the problem would most likely be a “cold” solder joint in the inductor, capacitor or one of the components. If you know how to disassemble, assemble, and you are handy with a soldering iron, you can just reflow the cold joints.

If you are seeing only black screen on the display, try checking the cables if they are properly connected or plugged. You can also reconnect each cable one by one to make sure that they are plugged in the right input. If your flat screen has a screen saver, see how it is set. If these won’t work, maybe the rear projection, the lamp, or the panel has been damaged. Better to call the manufacturer’s customer service to help you identify such technical problem and replace what needs to be replaced.

If your screen keeps turning off, the timer may be activated. Now if the timer is not the cause of the problem, you may need to have the unit checked. Ask that the power supply be checked first as the output voltage may not be enough to power the circuit boards. Power supply may need to be changed or the LCD panel itself has to be replaced.

Now if problems are worse than the ones mentioned, it is better that you check the unit’s warranty and speak directly with the manufacturer’s customer service. If the service contract has elapsed, consult a technician for a professional service. But if your television had been with you for quite a few years and it really had its time, then maybe you need to give yourself a gift and buy a spanking new and perfectly working LCD TV.

If fixing things around the house is your thing, then fixing things in an RV will come easy for you. On the other hand, if you rely on someone else when the simplest thing goes wrong, prepare yourself to become handy or take a handyman along on your RV adventure.

Think that you can dismiss this role by throwing money at it? Not so fast! Even if your budget can sustain paying for all preventive maintenance and repairs, services may not always be available. Imagine the difference it would make if you can do your own RV repair, versus having to spend a day or two of your week-long vacation at the shop.

RV REPAIRS VS. HOUSE REPAIRS

Even though an RV is considerably smaller than a modest house, it requires more frequent repairs. This is also true for brand new recreational vehicles, while new houses are mostly trouble-free in their first few years.

Some of the reasons for the increased repairs in an RV are the following:

Lighter construction throughout, due to weight and space constraints. Even the appliances are not made as well as the ones manufactured for fixed residences.
RV’s have more moving parts, some of them complex.
Vibration, bumping, and frame flexing caused by travel can break or loosen all sorts of components.
Less insulation means preventive measures must be taken in freezing weather. If preventive measures are ignored, repairs may be necessary.
Unlike houses that are frequently inspected during construction, RV’s have no such regulatory requirements. This leaves quality control up to each manufacturer, some of which choose to build poor quality products. This is why it is so important to inspect all RV’s before buying.

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A HANDYMAN?

From my own experience and from observing others on both sides of the handyman fence, I have come to the conclusion that the two requirements to become handy are: interest in solving a problem and not being intimidated by machinery. A close third is knowing your limits; knowing when a problem is beyond your skills and being willing to ask for professional help. Once you posses the above three attributes, the finer skills of being a handyman can be learned with time and practice.

As you are gaining experience, keep this old saying in mind: “Measure twice and cut once.” The key is not to be so afraid that you won’t try, but to be extra cautious when approaching an unfamiliar problem. Are you about to drill through a wall? Do all you can to examine both sides of the wall and items near it. If there is a chance that utilities may be running through that wall, do not proceed without consulting blue prints or an expert.

MAINTENANCE & REPAIR TASKS

Handyman skills are necessary for RV preventive maintenance and for making repairs. Below is a list of common tasks that a person possessing a good dose of common sense and average skills should be able to handle without specialized training:

Motor home engine or tow vehicle components:

Check and fill engine oil
Check and fill engine coolant
Check and fill other engine fluids
Check and adjust tire pressure
Lubricate under-chassis steering joints
Lubricate hitch moving components

Recreational vehicle components:

Repair or install cabinetry hinges, slides, and latches
Re-attach paneling with nails or adhesive
Fix external storage door hinges and support arms
Replace broken entryway handles
Dislodge and lubricate stubborn awning mechanisms
Replace bulbs
Find and replace blown fuses
Troubleshoot basic electrical problems with a multimeter
Test RV park A/C power voltage
Check and fill RV battery water
Test RV battery charge level
Replace common electric motors such as water pump and waste water valve motors
Drill holes in various locations to run wires, but having enough sense to know where not to drill in order to avoid damaging components beneath the surface.
Find source of water leak and caulk it
Repair leaky water lines and hoses that are easily accessible
Unclog slow or blocked sink and shower drains
Insulate exposed hoses and pipes to prevent freezing
Winterize RV before cold storage to prevent freezing
Repair broken sewage connectors and covers
Detect and find propane leaks
Clear clogged air conditioner drain passages
Recognize and correct common refrigerator problems. For example, my mostly-new Norcold fridge occasionally stops cooling until I reset the control board by unplugging the 12 volt DC wire in the back. According to a service guy, this is common for this brand.

HANDYMAN ESSENTIALS

Take it from me and the Boy Scouts–it is good to be prepared. I remember racing across Dallas a few minutes before 11:00 P.M., trying to make it to an AutoZone to buy fuses before they closed. The converter in our brand new RV blew a fuse, the batteries were mostly drained, and without spare fuses our new home just sat there in the dark. This incident would have turned into an uncomfortable night were it to happen during a vacation, far away from auto part stores.

To be prepared, take along a complete set of common tools such as hammers, screw drivers, etc. In addition, take all of the following tools, supplies, and spares that apply to your situation:

Tools:

Hydraulic jacks rated for the RV weight
Sturdy blocks for using under hydraulic jacks. Check your jacks before you need them because they may not extend high enough to lift the RV without the use of blocks. Concrete or other masonry blocks may not be strong enough to support the weight of heavy RV’s and tow trucks.
Torque wrench for tightening the wheel lug nuts
¼” and ½” socket drivers with extensions and sockets to fit all fasteners you might remove. The largest socket I needed was a 2″ for the wheel lug nuts to use with the torque wrench.
15″ adjustable wrench with a 2.5″ jaw opening
Caulk gun
Grease gun or can of grease. I found storing the grease gun too messy and opted for the can instead.
Full set of Allen wrenches
Full set of screwdriver tips, including square and star shapes
Small wood and metal hand saws
Flexible magnet to retrieve fallen screws
Small mirror to look into tight spaces
Small shovel in case you get stuck in snow or mud
Small wood and metal files for rounding sharp corners
Multimeter with a set of alligator clip wires
Battery hydrometer for accurately testing battery charge
Soldering iron and solder for re-attaching broken wires
Flash light with fresh batteries
Electric drill and complete drill bit set
Quality tire pressure gauge with long hose, rated for 100 psi or higher
Adjustable gripping pliers with jaws wide enough to clamp onto water hose connector. Handy when it is time to remove an over-tightened water hose.

Spares:

At least a couple of each fuse size found in your RV and tow vehicle. More of the common sizes.
Light bulbs
Fresh water hose and adapter to connect two hoses for longer reach
Sewer hose and adapter to connect two hoses for longer reach
Sewer pipe screw-on cap because it breaks easily in cold weather
Spare wheel for motor home, trailer, and tow vehicle
Tire valve cores and removal tool
Electrical extension cords designed for outdoor use

Maintenance & repair supplies:

Collection of screws and nails, the types used in your RV
Duct tape, both the permanent and temporary types. Temporary duct tape comes in handy to hold things like paneling and trim in place while the adhesive dries.
Clear duct tape for temporary repair of broken signal lights, torn awning canvas, etc.
Liquid Nails adhesive for re-attaching sagging ceilings and almost anything else
Marine adhesive for waterproof repairs
Caulk designed for the roof and exterior walls of your specific RV
General use waterproof caulk for the interior
WD-40 for lubrication and for removing tough petroleum-based stains
Propane leak tester solution in spray bottle
Wire nuts for connecting electrical wires
Pipe insulation

KNOW YOUR LIMITS

Being handy around the RV will save you time, money, and the added aggravation of spending part of your vacation in a shop. At the same time be smart about what you are capable and willing to take on. One time I removed and completely disassembled a wheel hub from my trailer to track down a squeaky noise; this has taught me that wheel hubs are too complex for my skills and messy too.

It is never fun when something goes wrong with the RV, but you will get a great deal of satisfaction being able to repair common problems.

When you are out shopping for your equipment, one important thing that you will want to have on your list is quality “hard” cases to pack everything up in for two reasons. The first of course, is so all of your equipment is protected but also cases help for accounting for all your gear when you are packing to leave.

Still one more item on your shopping list should be extra cords and adapters. Not only will you need a few light extra light cords for connecting your components but you would be wise to include in a nice heavy extra 100 foot electrical cord and some power splitters in case you have to share an electrical outlet that is already occupied at a venue.

The next thing that you are going to want to have is a small tool bag that has all the tools that you will need to open up your gear and make repairs. This kit should also include a roll of electrical tape a roll of duct tape, a soldering iron with some high grade solder and a small flashlight.

The fact is that “Murphy’s law” dictates that anything that can go wrong will at some point in time and when things do go wrong it is always at the most inopportune time. So look your system over and try to see where any weak spots are such as plugs and knobs. You can buy extras for just in case and at some point in the future you will be glad that you did.

Your first concern with any DIY solar kit would be its adequacy for your solar energy needs. You do not have to purchase a kit worthy of converting your entire home to solar energy if you are just experimenting. There is a broad range of kits out there, some including sample kits, so you can tailor your project to your own needs. Playing first with a sample kit will do two things for you: it will give you an idea of the amount of work you would need to do in order to take on a bigger venture; secondly it will give you a playing ground to make mistakes. You wouldn’t want to have to redo or repurchase a larger kit because you made a mistake in constructing it.

A different concern when finding the right kind of DIY solar kit is the amount of components contained within it. You want an all inclusive solar kit. If your kit is missing elements, this will cost you time to purchase the missing element, and time by having to stop or delay construction until the missing item is purchased. The elements of your kit should include: solder, soldering iron, flux, tabbing, solar cells, and instructions for housing your solar panel.

The company you are buying your DIY solar kit from is a primary concern also. If you are buying your kit from a store, are the people friendly there and willing to offer advice? Do they seem knowledgeable about the solar system you are considering constructing? If you are searching through online companies: Do they have a well laid out website with frequently asked questions? Are the instructions on their website clear when you are searching and purchasing (unclear instructions here might indicate additional difficulty you will have with instructions in your kit)? Do they offer resources for you if you have questions on the product, or might have questions when putting the product together? Putting a bit of research into the company you are purchasing this item from might save you a lot of grief later.

DIY solar kits are like any other kit, you save money because you save labour costs. The labour is going to be supplied by yourself (and maybe a couple of well meaning friends), so you need to know that you are probably going to take longer to construct your solar panel solutions. Plan for extra time, and if your need is essential, put extra money aside in case you need to hire a professional.

With all this in mind, creating something yourself will definitely boost your ego! So take it slow, find a kit that’s right for you and get started on your energy solutions today!